Short version: My IKEA pull-out trash cabinet uses top-mounted Hafele bins, so there was no drawer back for the opener to push against. I mounted the Blum/UTRUSTA SERVO-DRIVE near the cabinet front and added a 2-1/8-inch wood spacer behind the moving front. Here is how I built it, with measurements from my installation.
When I did our kitchen, I wanted the island drawers and trash cabinet to open with a light push. We use electric openers throughout the island, and I wanted the same convenience for the trash and recycling bins.
But this cabinet was a different situation.
Instead of a regular drawer holding the bins, I installed a Hafele top-mounted pull-out inside a 24-inch IKEA SEKTION cabinet. The bins hang from a metal frame near the top. I like that design — it is easy to lift the bins out, replace the bags, and clean underneath.
The problem was that there was no conventional drawer back for my Blum/UTRUSTA SERVO-DRIVE arm to push against.
So I came up with a little modification: mount the opener near the front of the cabinet and give it a wood spacer behind the cabinet front to push.
It has been working in our kitchen for a couple of years. And while I was doing this, I found a way to use the narrow spaces beside the bins for replacement trash bags and small cleaning supplies.
Why My IKEA Pull-Out Trash Cabinet Needed a Different Approach
With a regular drawer, there is a drawer back that the opening arm can contact. My Hafele system has two hanging bins, a metal frame, and open space below.
That open space is one of the things I like about it — it makes cleaning easier. If something falls below the bins, I can reach it. It’s clean, it’s easier to maintain, and I just like the concept. But it also meant the opener could not work in the position I normally use.
The cabinet front attaches to the pull-out frame, so I decided to use the front as the contact point instead.
The motor stays mounted inside the cabinet. Only the wood spacer attaches to the back of the moving front.
My Solution: a Front-Mounted Opener and a Door Spacer
I positioned the Blum/UTRUSTA mounting bracket flush with the front edge of the cabinet, on the inside. That gave me a clear reference point for measuring the distance between the drive arm and the back of the cabinet front.
In my installation, I needed a spacer that projected 2-1/8 inches from the back of the front.
I used leftover wood from my IKEA project and built it up to that thickness. Nothing fancy — a block plus a couple of other boards stacked together to get to that 2-1/8 inches, positioned where the opening arm could reach it.
When I give the cabinet front a light push, the unit activates. The arm pushes against the spacer, and the whole trash pull-out moves forward.
That little block is what made this arrangement work.
The Measurements From My Cabinet
These are the measurements I used, so you can understand the layout. Measure your own hardware before copying them.
| Part | My measurement |
|---|---|
| IKEA cabinet width | 24 inches, nominal |
| Cabinet front (IKEA VOXTORP door) | 24 × 30 inches |
| Spacer projection from the back of the front | 2-1/8 inches |
| Spacer length across the front | 13 inches |
| Bottom edge of the front to the top edge of the spacer | About 4-1/4 inches |
| Inside cabinet bottom to the top edge of each Hafele side rail | 20 inches |
| Tool-access holes in the side organizers | 1/2 inch |
I made the spacer 13 inches long because I was experimenting with the opener position and wanted room to move the contact point left or right. You can do it less — 11, 10 — I just put mine in the middle at 13 in case I wanted to relocate the sensor. What matters is having a secure contact surface in the right place.
How I Attached the Spacer
I fastened the block to the back of the cabinet front with little angle brackets — small angles — and short screws.
Be careful with the screw length here. Just make sure you’re using very tiny, small screws, because otherwise they would go through and damage your surface. Something less than three-eighths of an inch in my case — choose the length for your actual front and bracket thickness.
Before fixing everything in place, check the alignment with the pull-out closed. The spacer needs to reach the arm without preventing the front from closing or interfering with the trigger movement.
Making Room Underneath the Bins
In my setup, the mounting bracket of the Blum/UTRUSTA servo needed to be trimmed. I cut part of the bracket off with a grinder so it would sit flush with the servo itself. That way the bins travel above the unit without touching it.
That was a modification to my particular mounting bracket. Check the instructions and available mounting options for your exact opener before doing the same. Disconnect power during the work, and keep cutting debris away from the mechanism.
I checked the clearance through the full opening and closing movement. You also need to keep the cable away from moving parts.
Did I Think Pushing the Front Would Actually Work?
I didn’t know if it would work.
Usually, the arm pushes against a drawer back. Here, it pushes a spacer near the bottom of a much taller cabinet front. I wasn’t sure if it would be wobbly or loosen something over time.
But it has been working in our kitchen for a couple of years. Nothing loose, no rattle, nothing like that. So that system is working.
That is my experience with this cabinet and this Hafele pull-out. Rev-A-Shelf and a few other brands make top-mounted pull-outs with the same basic concept — hanging bins on a slide-out frame — so the idea may carry over. But I have only tested mine. Check your own hardware’s mounting geometry and clearances.
How I Mounted the Hafele Rails in the IKEA Cabinet
The Hafele side rails support the upper frame and the hanging bins. I mounted one rail on each inside cabinet wall.
The top edge of each rail is 20 inches above the inside bottom surface of my cabinet.
That is the reference shown in my installation photos — not 20 inches from the kitchen floor, and not to the bottom edge of the rail.
I also had to work around our countertop grill — the appliance is built into our Cambria quartz countertop, and part of it extends into the cabinet. That affected the space available for the bins and their mounting height. I could’ve put bigger bins, I could’ve put wider — but I was adapting to the appliance on top. A lot of us have cooktops, sinks, stuff like that, so your situation will be personal.
Both rails need to be level and aligned. Before choosing the final height, check your exact pull-out instructions, appliance clearances, and the space needed to lift out the bins. My 20-inch measurement describes my installation.
Bonus Hack: Use the Space Beside the Trash Bins
Once the pull-out was working, I noticed the narrow spaces between the bins and the cabinet walls.
And I said, why not?
We always need replacement trash bags right here. I could leave the rolls on the cabinet bottom — I mean, I could, but it’s not me. I like to be organized. I hate to waste a little space on the sides.
I found two Joseph Joseph CupboardStore under-shelf organizers. They are designed to mount horizontally underneath a shelf. I modified mine and installed them vertically, one on each side of the cabinet.
Cut off the two front mounting tabs
I removed the two little shelf-mounting ears at the front, near the organizer opening. Then I smoothed the cut edges and checked the fit against the cabinet wall.
Drill 1/2-inch tool-access holes
I drilled 1/2-inch access holes in the outer face near the corners. These let me reach the mounting screws with a screwdriver or drill bit.
The half-inch measurement is for tool access. It is not the size of the screw holes in the cabinet wall.
I preferred screws over double-sided tape because heavy rolls go in there, and tape is not going to hold that for a long time, in my opinion.
Keep the supplies near the opening
I mounted the organizers beneath the rails and close to the front so I could reach them easily.
There is not a lot of space, so do not expect to store big containers. But it is enough for trash-bag rolls and a few small cleaning bottles for the countertop and the electric cooktop. Everything has to be used. Check that both the organizers and their contents clear the moving bins, slides, and opener.
It is a small addition, but now the replacement bags are exactly where I need them. I did the same kind of space hunting under our kitchen sink.
Parts and Tools I Used
- IKEA SEKTION 24-inch cabinet with a 24-by-30-inch VOXTORP front
- Hafele dual waste-bin pull-out — Hailo US Cargo 18, item no. 502.77.532
- Blum SERVO-DRIVE uno with its compatible power supply and mounting components
- Scrap wood for the spacer
- Small angle brackets and appropriately sized screws
- Two Joseph Joseph CupboardStore under-shelf organizers
- Tape measure, drill, screwdriver, suitable bits, and grinder
IKEA UTRUSTA electric push openers are made by Blum — essentially the same SERVO-DRIVE in an IKEA box, which is why I call it Blum/UTRUSTA throughout. I also use IKEA UTRUSTA electric openers elsewhere in the kitchen. Check the exact model you have rather than assuming every UTRUSTA and Blum unit uses the same mounting parts or dimensions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the motor attached to the cabinet front?
No. The drive unit stays inside the cabinet near the front. The wood spacer attaches behind the moving front, and the arm pushes against it.
Does the spacer have to be 2-1/8 inches thick?
That is the projection I needed in my installation. Measure the gap and contact position in your own setup before making the block.
Will this work with another brand of trash pull-out?
I’ve only tested this with my Hafele pull-out. A similar approach may be possible with other systems, but check the mounting geometry, clearances, and opener requirements before adapting it.
Can the organizers hold cleaning bottles as well as trash bags?
Mine hold trash-bag rolls and a few small cleaning bottles. The available space and clearance determine what fits. Keep everything clear of the moving mechanism.
Is this an official manufacturer installation?
No. It is my independent DIY modification and an explanation of what has worked in our home.
What I Like About the Finished Setup
The cabinet opens with a light push. The bins lift out for cleaning. And the replacement bags are right beside them.
That is what I wanted: a cabinet that works for the way we use our kitchen.
The spacer solved the opener problem, and the side organizers made the remaining space useful. Ordinary parts, a few modifications, and measurements taken from the actual cabinet.
Look through my original photos and illustrations to see the contact point and clearances. If you try a similar project, adapt the idea to your own hardware. And if you are still planning your layout, I built a free kitchen planner you can use.
Other hardware upgrades in the same IKEA kitchen: the pull-down shelf for IKEA cabinets and the GROHE Blue sparkling-water tap. More kitchen servo projects coming.
— Alex, HOMEJECT
Independent DIY project. Not affiliated with or sponsored by IKEA, Blum, Hafele, or Joseph Joseph. Measurements describe my installation. Cutting brackets and working around powered openers is at your own risk; follow the manufacturer’s instructions and disconnect power first. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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